love is a wave

Miki Dora, All For A Few Perfect Waves

The biography of Miki Dora, All for a Few Perfect Waves, crafts a strong narrative about the surfing icon, actor, fugitive, drifter, and psuedo-Beat. An iconoclast in the true sense of the word, author David Rensin talked to hundreds of individuals to get a feel for Dora. While we get snapshots of who the conflicted Dora was, to get the true essence is like trying to hold water in your hand. In the end, it is the strong opinions of Dora, the passion shown in one story, and the disdain and spite he showed in the next, that lets you craft your own image.

Dora traveled the world, leaving Malibu for Africa, New Zealand, France, and others, all in search of waves that were unsullied by a sea of humanity and commercialism. While he sought purity, but was a petty criminal and con artist. Still a legend to many, Dora probably is the individual who took surfing from a clouded hobby and made it into a pro sport. This book, which was originally 900 pages and trimmed to a mere 500, gets beyond the surface to look at Dora’s relationships, ethos, and mindset.

Author David Rensin talking about Dora and All for a Few Perfect Waves

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